organic food gardening tips

Thursday, 5 June 2008

Working the soil to get the best results from your garden.

Tilling the Soil

Working the soil

The best landscape plan in the world will turn into an empty dream if the plants grow poorly. So before you turn the first spadeful of earth, ponder this question: How has the weather been?

If the dirt is gummy wet, wait until it dries out enough to crumble when you try to squeeze it into a handful. If it's brick hard, water deeply and then wait until it dries to the moist but crumbly stage. If your spade slides in easily, read on.

Spade, Shovel and Moon Phase

The hard work of turning up the soil will seem a little easier if you use a spade. It should be square, sharp, and straight or nearly straight in its shank. When you push it into firm earth with your foot, you want all the force to go straight down the blade. And if you use a file to keep it sharpened, roots and clods of soil won't be major obstacles.

The best time for cultivating your garden is during the waning phases of the moon or when the moon is transitioning from full moon to new moon. To further refine the best time for tilling the moon should be in an Air or Water zodiac sign.

A scoop-shaped shovel, with its pointed blade, should be used for mixing or turning loose materials. You handle it as if it were a combination of a spade and scoop.

The point on the shovel helps you to slide it into the material and the concave blade keeps the material from sliding off as you lift and turn. A shovel blade is set at an angle to the shaft so it stays flat when you push it horizontally into a pile of material.

In spading up small areas of soil, many gardeners make the mistake of turning each spadeful of earth completely over. If you make the same mistake, any weeds, leaves, or other debris in the soil will form a one spade-deep barrier that cuts off air and water.

Instead, you should lay the dirt on its side (against the previous shovelful) so the original surface is vertical to the ground.

Machine Power

Using a spade to turn the earth is fine for small areas, but for really big jobs you may want to rent or buy a power tiller. Because a tiller is adjustable, it can either scratch the surface or dig down several inches.

If you want to add amendments to packed soil but find it hard to make the tiller dig deep enough, start tilling at a shallow depth. Go over the area a second time (or even a third) with the tiller at a deeper setting each time. (Generally, the more powerful the tiller and the higher its horsepower, the deeper it can dig into the soil.)

In adding amendment, you should mix in a quantity that is from a quarter to a half of the finished volume of soil. (For more information on soil amendments, see soil amendment chart) Don't pile up so much amendment that the tiller can't penetrate the soil.

To avoid this, start by adding the amendment in 2 or 3-inch layers, tilling in each layer. If the amendment you choose needs nitrogen, add part of the amount with each amendment layer. Finally, don't till in the same direction each time you add a layer of amendment. For the best mix the furrows should be at right angles to the furrows you made on your previous run.

Three Step Soil Amendment Guide

1) Spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of soil amendment over soil with a rake; add nitrogen fertilizer if needed. Don't till yet.

2) Scatter superphosphate or bone meal (following package directions) for good root growth. If amendment is sawdust, also add iron chelate.

3) Cultivate in one direction, then at right angles, tilling the top 8 or 9 inches of soil. Repeat several times to mix soil evenly with amendment.

Following these steps will increase your chances for having a wonderful year in the garden. Happy tilling!

moonGROW.com (http://www.moonGROW.com) is a website delving into Moon Phase and Zodiac Sign Organic gardening. By Gene DeFazzio, this site provides the basics of both astrological and organic growing for the home gardener.



Tilling the soil

Saturday, 10 May 2008

Organic Solutions to Deter Garden Intruders

Organic Solutions to Deter Garden Intruders

ARA) – Warm weather has arrived and summer’s bounty of blooms and vegetables are finally in sight. And so are families of groundhogs, rabbits, squirrels, deer and other critters who just can’t wait to feast on the fruits of your labor.

No one wants to battle the bunnies and other bothersome wildlife. Trapping garden intruders won’t solve the problem and some commonly used repellants can negatively impact the environment. It is possible, however, to kindly encourage animals to look for their next meal somewhere other than your garden – and be kind to the environment at the same time.

First, you’ll need to recognize your opponent. James Messina, of Messina Wildlife Management, producers of a full line of organic animal repellents, offers the following tips on some of the critters you might find munching on your prized plants and landscapes this summer:

1. Groundhogs: It's the groundhog’s goal to eat as much as possible which puts him on a collision course with your garden.

Groundhogs damage your landscape in two ways. First, they eat vegetables in the garden, attacking both the root crops and above ground crops. Second, their relentless tunneling causes mass disruption of root systems, weakening and can even killing plant life.

2. Rabbits: Bunnies don’t just dine on clover and grass, although those greens make up 90 percent of their diets. They also damage woody plants in your landscape. Feeding at night or in the early morning, their damage is usually no higher than 2 1/2 feet above the ground.

3. Deer: A lovely sight almost anywhere other than in your own  back yard, deer can cause major damage to plants and vegetable gardens. To determine if your flowers and vegetables are disappearing due to deer damage, look closely at the half-eaten plants. If you see a jagged, rough edge you can be sure the damage was done by deer as they have no incisor teeth and tear at the food source, leaving tell-tale signs of their presence.

4. Squirrels and Chipmunks: These furry, funny, cute creatures can be quite destructive when it comes to your gardens and landscapes. Both ground squirrels and chipmunks are burrowing animals. Usually, they feed on green leafy material during the summer and switch to seeds and grains during the fall and winter. They also love wild bird feeders and have a reputation for driving away the very birds you put the feeder out to attract.

For most animals, scent and taste are the primary attractions to food sources. If you disrupt the animal’s sense of smell and taste you have won the battle against the constant parade of critters in your landscapes. As a rule of thumb, it is far better to prevent wildlife damage than to wait until it occurs and try to combat it.

Messina Wildlife Management’s OMRI certified (100 percent) line of organic animal repellents convinces critters to go elsewhere, while still protecting the environment. Easily applied in a ready to use spray-on bottle, the repellents dry clear, are all pleasant smelling, and work for 30 days before reapplication is needed, no matter the weather. The full product line can even be used on edibles, and none of the products cause harm or physical irritation to the animals they repel. The products work by smell and taste, repelling pesky critters from your back yard, and they’re all pleasant smelling and safe to humans.

Visit www.messinawildlifemanagement.com for more information on safe, effective pest repellents.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

The Organic Gardening Revolution

One of the key elements in sustainable farming is maintaining a fertile soil. When farmers grow crops, nutrients are removed from the soil, thus depleting its fertility.

Peas and beans (legumes) fix nitrogen from the air into the soil so plant them with nitrogen loving cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, or corn. The organic gardener can use this information to increase productivity in a small area and repel pests by interplanting onions and carrots together.

A cauliflower plant requires 25 grams of nitrogen while one kg of cattle dung has only five grams of nitrogen. Though it is not difficult to get five kgs of animal dung to ensure that the plant gets 25 grams of nitrogen, it causes extra costs in terms of labour time needed to prepare a pit big enough to hold five kgs of animal dung but planting in an area previously used for peas and beans should mean that there is enough nitrogen in the soil.

Organic matter improves soil while preventing soil compaction and crusting. Soils low in organic matter often crust or seal over after a heavy rain, which prevents water and oxygen infiltration to the root system of growing vegetables. If the soil dries out during their growth, radishes will become bitter and mealy. Keep radishes evenly moist throughout the growing season.

Sawdust and peat are useful to lower the pH if your soil is too alkaline. Wood ashes, oyster shell, bone meal and lime are good for raising the pH of acid soils. At the end of the growing season, rototill the paper and straw into the soil to decay. Pots tend to dry out really quickly especially in the summer, and with constant watering the nutrients are leached from the soil and will need to be replenished.

Richer taste also comes from growing vegetables in naturally enriched soils. Making more nutrients available to the plants yields vegetables with more nutrients. Root crops need well-drained, loose soil for good root development. Specific soil requirements are listed with each crop. It makes a long groove in the soil, drops the seeds into it, and the covers and firms the soil above the seed.

With your own organic vegetable garden you can finally take back control over what is going into your body and have fun doing it. Growing organic vegetables 'now' will place you way ahead of the coming organic garden revolution.

Sunday, 13 April 2008

Organic Gardening

Organic gardening

Organic gardening is composed of numerous aspects that make up a whole interconnected system. This system relies upon insects, birds, shade, sun, and all other aspects of a living and working community. Organic gardening is the oldest method of cultivation, it's good for your family, and it's less expensive to do! You will find that organic vegetable gardening may become the most rewarding hobby, or lifestyle, you have ever undertaken.

Organic gardening is gardening without the use of man-made chemical pesticides or chemical fertilizers. It is said by some of its supporters to be more in harmony with nature. Organic gardening is a less expensive way to grow fruits, vegetables and herbs in such a way that they are as close to nature as possible. It is an evolving science which is considered by its followers to be much more sustainable than gardening with chemicals. Organic gardening is great because you don't have to buy anything to do it. It's easy and everyone can do it.

Organic vegetable gardening is different from conventional gardening in two major ways. The fertility of the soil depends upon three components: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium [Nitrogen promotes leafy growth, phosphorus encourages fruiting and rooting, and potassium promotes fruiting and flowering. These are macronutrients essential to all plant life].

Organic vegetable gardening is the wave of the future and is an insurance policy for you and your family’s health. Organic vegetable gardening is a rewarding and healthy hobby. With the proper planning and supplies, your jaunt into the world of organic vegetable gardening can be all that you are dreaming it to be.

Soil that is hard or dense will be almost impossible to aerate and therefore the plants will not get enough oxygen through the root system in order to thrive and flourish. Likewise, if there is no way for the water to evenly percolate to the plants roots in your garden, some plants will make it while others will die without consistent moisture, and some will be oversaturated and get root rot. Soil is the life force of the garden. When enriched with organic matter, the soil becomes moist, fertile, and airy -- ideal for healthy plants.

Soil can be enriched by placing a layer of animal manure or compost before covering with bark chips. Soil conservation districts sprang up to advocate contour plowing and fallow areas, but the real underlying problem, one that continues to today is simply this: The chemical fertilizers are made from ammonia salts. Synthesized nitrogen is salt based, and anyone familiar with what salt build-up does to soil knows that isn't a good thing . Soil fertility is enriched by the addition green manures , minerals and humus . Minerals are obtained from a variety of sources, such as calcium from fossil or recently deceased shellfish, potassium from wood ash, nitrogen from the animal urea in manures or leguminous plants , and phosphorus from bone.

Soil moisture is maintained at optimum levels. Each species of crops can also be planted in different plots each year. Soil is the foundation for plants which is why so much of organic gardening focuses on improving soil. A sure-fire way to improve your soil is by adding lots of organic matter such as compost .

organic gardening

Organic Gardening Tips

Welcome to my organic gardening tips blog. Here you will learn about organic gardening and get tips on how to grow the best organic vegetables and herbs.