organic food gardening tips
Showing posts with label organic gardening tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label organic gardening tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, 12 November 2008

True Organic Fertilizer: Manure and Muck

By Bill Urell

I visited a store last week, out in the country, where people might be expected to know better, and discovered that one of their products was 'organic fertilizer.' That's right; they were bagging cow dung and selling it, at six dollars a pound, no less. And this in a remote farming area surrounded by cow pastures!

"Organic fertilizer" sounds lovely, but truth be told, for a little work, you can get it free from any nearby farmer. Or you can usually pay someone to deliver it for you. It doesn't come in plastic bags, but I guarantee, it will be less than six dollars a pound.

What kinds of manure work best as organic fertilizer? Well, the store had one thing right; cow dung is best. Because cows digest so little of their food, cow manure won't burn plants the way nitrogen-rich chicken manure will. Nor does it need to be composted before putting it on the garden. (Actually, elephant dung is slightly better than cow dung. But this article assumes that you'll have a slightly easier time finding cow dung than elephant dung.)

Horse manure is another good one. It's not quite as nutrient-rich as cow dung, but again, it won't burn plants and it can be applied directly to the soil.

Chicken manure is the best as far as sheer nutrients go. It's rich in nitrogen; an application of chicken manure will grow some of the best corn you can imagine. However, chicken manure is what's know as a 'hot' manure; it will burn plants, and cannot be applied directly to the soil. In order to use it, let it compost for at least three months (six months to a year is better) in an out-of-the-way corner of the garden, then apply it sparingly to your unplanted beds and wait at least two weeks and one good rain before planting in it. Or, mix it with dry matter, such as leaf mold or sawdust, to cut down on the heat. (Unfortunately, this also dilutes the nutrients. But chicken manure diluted this way makes an excellent organic fertilizer because it can be applied directly to the beds, left two weeks and one good rain, and then planted.)

Ultimately, organic fertilizer should be free or--at the very least--cheap as...well...dirt. Because that's exactly what it is.

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Sunday, 2 November 2008

Making Sure You Have All Your Organic Garden Supplies.

Organic farming is the trend these days because it is low-priced and it is environmentally friendly but before you get started, you need to get some organic vegetable horticulture supplies from your local store.

Of all the supplies needed, Dirt is possibly the most crucial since horticulture starts from here.

The condition of the land has to be checked before any preparation or seed implantation takes place.

Because the pH level is not possible to gauge, some amount of compost should be put in the Soil, so that it not only neutralizes it for excess pH, but also keeps the Soil enriched with nutrients for future cultivation.

Lots of gardeners do not purchase|purchase] compost since they are adept in making it.

Compost can be made using weeds, dead leaves, rotten vegetables or meat waste products and manure.

This is not only biodegradable but reduces the measure of debris dumped.

Before you throw the seeds on the prepared land, check that the environment is prepared too for their survival.

To get the best out of your efforts do some online research or even discus the matter with your local store clerk, before you set out to buy them.

If not sees, you could also buy vegetables that have started to grow.

Insects and pests cause big headaches for farmers and gardeners and quick help in this regard is available from other insects, birds, ladybugs, praying mantis and the toad.

Another is the use of horticultural oils that break down quickly and pose little toxicity to humans or pets.

Weeds are another problem: For this, you will have to put on your gardening gloves, get on your knees and start pulling them from the ground.

Effective help can also be obtained if you spray the farming area with horticultural vinegar or corn meal gluten granules, which inhibit weed growth and keeps the soil enriched with nitrogen.

Keep in mind that this should be applied during early spring or fall when most weeds come out.

During selection check the condition of the leaves and omit those, which are already looking worn out and discolored.

There is another non-toxic chemical you can use to fight weeds are fish or seaweed based liquid based plant foods.

They are also known to enrich your soil with nitrogen, phosphate and potash, which benefits your crops.

In case you are not ready with adequate backyard space, use pots made with clay, plastic or wood for doing organic farming.

Just remember to water them often, as their need for water is more indoors than outdoors.

Having all the organic farming provisions prepared will make it easy for you to plant your seeds and harvest them so you are prepared to rotate this with another variant.

If you have multiple horticulture depots where you live, the best option for you is to check and compare their costs before actually making the purchases.

In case you run short of some provisions, look up online depots where you not only get the goods but get good advice also.

Organic farming is not only a low-cost way to grow vegetables, it also ensures that you eat the purest and cleanest foods grown without any harsh chemicals or pesticides – so wait no longer, start with it today.

organic gardening

Thursday, 5 June 2008

Working the soil to get the best results from your garden.

Tilling the Soil

Working the soil

The best landscape plan in the world will turn into an empty dream if the plants grow poorly. So before you turn the first spadeful of earth, ponder this question: How has the weather been?

If the dirt is gummy wet, wait until it dries out enough to crumble when you try to squeeze it into a handful. If it's brick hard, water deeply and then wait until it dries to the moist but crumbly stage. If your spade slides in easily, read on.

Spade, Shovel and Moon Phase

The hard work of turning up the soil will seem a little easier if you use a spade. It should be square, sharp, and straight or nearly straight in its shank. When you push it into firm earth with your foot, you want all the force to go straight down the blade. And if you use a file to keep it sharpened, roots and clods of soil won't be major obstacles.

The best time for cultivating your garden is during the waning phases of the moon or when the moon is transitioning from full moon to new moon. To further refine the best time for tilling the moon should be in an Air or Water zodiac sign.

A scoop-shaped shovel, with its pointed blade, should be used for mixing or turning loose materials. You handle it as if it were a combination of a spade and scoop.

The point on the shovel helps you to slide it into the material and the concave blade keeps the material from sliding off as you lift and turn. A shovel blade is set at an angle to the shaft so it stays flat when you push it horizontally into a pile of material.

In spading up small areas of soil, many gardeners make the mistake of turning each spadeful of earth completely over. If you make the same mistake, any weeds, leaves, or other debris in the soil will form a one spade-deep barrier that cuts off air and water.

Instead, you should lay the dirt on its side (against the previous shovelful) so the original surface is vertical to the ground.

Machine Power

Using a spade to turn the earth is fine for small areas, but for really big jobs you may want to rent or buy a power tiller. Because a tiller is adjustable, it can either scratch the surface or dig down several inches.

If you want to add amendments to packed soil but find it hard to make the tiller dig deep enough, start tilling at a shallow depth. Go over the area a second time (or even a third) with the tiller at a deeper setting each time. (Generally, the more powerful the tiller and the higher its horsepower, the deeper it can dig into the soil.)

In adding amendment, you should mix in a quantity that is from a quarter to a half of the finished volume of soil. (For more information on soil amendments, see soil amendment chart) Don't pile up so much amendment that the tiller can't penetrate the soil.

To avoid this, start by adding the amendment in 2 or 3-inch layers, tilling in each layer. If the amendment you choose needs nitrogen, add part of the amount with each amendment layer. Finally, don't till in the same direction each time you add a layer of amendment. For the best mix the furrows should be at right angles to the furrows you made on your previous run.

Three Step Soil Amendment Guide

1) Spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of soil amendment over soil with a rake; add nitrogen fertilizer if needed. Don't till yet.

2) Scatter superphosphate or bone meal (following package directions) for good root growth. If amendment is sawdust, also add iron chelate.

3) Cultivate in one direction, then at right angles, tilling the top 8 or 9 inches of soil. Repeat several times to mix soil evenly with amendment.

Following these steps will increase your chances for having a wonderful year in the garden. Happy tilling!

moonGROW.com (http://www.moonGROW.com) is a website delving into Moon Phase and Zodiac Sign Organic gardening. By Gene DeFazzio, this site provides the basics of both astrological and organic growing for the home gardener.



Tilling the soil

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

The Organic Gardening Revolution

One of the key elements in sustainable farming is maintaining a fertile soil. When farmers grow crops, nutrients are removed from the soil, thus depleting its fertility.

Peas and beans (legumes) fix nitrogen from the air into the soil so plant them with nitrogen loving cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, or corn. The organic gardener can use this information to increase productivity in a small area and repel pests by interplanting onions and carrots together.

A cauliflower plant requires 25 grams of nitrogen while one kg of cattle dung has only five grams of nitrogen. Though it is not difficult to get five kgs of animal dung to ensure that the plant gets 25 grams of nitrogen, it causes extra costs in terms of labour time needed to prepare a pit big enough to hold five kgs of animal dung but planting in an area previously used for peas and beans should mean that there is enough nitrogen in the soil.

Organic matter improves soil while preventing soil compaction and crusting. Soils low in organic matter often crust or seal over after a heavy rain, which prevents water and oxygen infiltration to the root system of growing vegetables. If the soil dries out during their growth, radishes will become bitter and mealy. Keep radishes evenly moist throughout the growing season.

Sawdust and peat are useful to lower the pH if your soil is too alkaline. Wood ashes, oyster shell, bone meal and lime are good for raising the pH of acid soils. At the end of the growing season, rototill the paper and straw into the soil to decay. Pots tend to dry out really quickly especially in the summer, and with constant watering the nutrients are leached from the soil and will need to be replenished.

Richer taste also comes from growing vegetables in naturally enriched soils. Making more nutrients available to the plants yields vegetables with more nutrients. Root crops need well-drained, loose soil for good root development. Specific soil requirements are listed with each crop. It makes a long groove in the soil, drops the seeds into it, and the covers and firms the soil above the seed.

With your own organic vegetable garden you can finally take back control over what is going into your body and have fun doing it. Growing organic vegetables 'now' will place you way ahead of the coming organic garden revolution.